Cromarty, A Peaceful Retreat In An Unexplored Nook Of The North Of Scotland

Drive beneath the avenue of trees to a haven beside the sea

A line of wild cherry trees create a stunning tunnel as you drive into Cromarty, opening out onto a luscious green park, the thwack of a tennis court which sits invitingly on the edge of the green is the sound effect to your entrance, immediately conjuring ideas of how to spend your time in town. Considering the freedom you feel once there, Cromarty is relatively easy to get to, you can fly with a couple of the major airlines, or get a train straight into Inverness with ease, and with forward planning, little offence to your bank balance. From there it’s just a 30-minute drive on a coastal road till you’re there.

Amble round the old town to soak up the atmosphere

Getting your bearings isn’t difficult as the town is only small and easy to navigate by foot, as you stroll round it’s fascinating to look at the original architecture of the Georgian houses and stunning churches, it’s not unusual to find houses dating back to the 17th century, still inhabited and in full tact! The Old Brewery, a now refurbished hostel-cum-art space, is one of these historic buildings, established in 1776, at 50 USD a person with 24 hour use of a fully equipped kitchen, is a great budget option for where to rest your head. Not that you’ll need the kitchen with the Cromarty Bakery on your doorsteps, where you can find favourites such as Macaroni pies (a Scottish delicacy which you mustn’t knock till you’ve tried!), and tattie scones which are in such demand you have to put your order in on a Saturday morning.

The Old Brewery also serves as a fantastic little music venue, having seen the likes of Aidan O’Rourke and The Staves, it’s an intimate space that has housed phenomenal gigs to remember.

A view to remember

The “Sutors” are two hills which face each other, opening out onto the North sea and marking the beginning of the Cromarty Firth. The South Sutor is on the Cromarty side and has a gorgeous walk up the ‘hundred steps’, through a wooded area and out into the open where you can see for miles. It’s a must do while in Cromarty, though don’t get bogged down by counting the steps as 100 is definitely a loose estimate.

Any substantial footwear will do, it’s not an epic climb, just obviously don’t don your white brogues as we all know Scotland isn’t famous for its balmy weather.

Sunset stroll

There’s nothing better after a day outdoors, feeling that giddy tiredness from all the sea air, than taking a stroll onto the harbour and watching the serene, little sailing boats bobbing up and down in the gentle evening breeze.

Licking the sea salt from your lips, if you’re anything like me, the first thing on your mind may be a refreshing, cold drink of some sort. Lucky then, that a stone’s throw away from the pier is one of Cromarty’s two drinking establishments, The Royal Hotel. With spectacular views over the pier take a seat outside - if the weather permits - and sup on a pint of one of Cromarty’s own breweries finest. The Cromarty Brewery rolled out its first keg at the end of December 2011 and has been hurtling along at full speed ever since, stocking at bars and shops all over the world. But what better place to sit down with a pint of Happy Chappy than on the doorsteps of its creation. And that’s exactly how it’ll make you feel.

Wood-fired pizza

Sutor Creek, the nickname writer and geologist of Cromarty, Hugh Miller, gave the town, has been adopted by an award-winning restaurant which sits looking out onto the harbour. Originally started as a cooperative pizza restaurant, the place is now run by an award winning chef who has won multiple awards for the restaurant including ‘The Times 2013 Top 20 Secret Foodie Restaurants in the UK’. I told you this place was a well-kept secret!

The simple menu is dedicated to local and seasonal produce, with 4 starters, 4 mains and some irresistible desserts. From the mains board expect to choose from dishes such as turbot with sautéed potatoes, salsify and charred leeks with cucumber and brown shrimp, or sirloin steak with Portobello mushroom, baked tomato, chunky chips and truffle butter. Yes, the decision really is that difficult!