The most well-known secluded onsen hot springs in Japan is Nyuto Onsen.
Although most would like to go at least once, almost all the hot spring baths featured in magazines and TV are of outdoor baths that are mixed bathing for both men and women, making it a bit of a hurdle for some women. Most of them are traditional medicinal baths where one might worry about the bathroom facilities as well.
This time we introduce the onsens Taenoyu and Tsurunoyu Bekkan Yamanoyado where women can bathe without worry in the outdoor baths and the facilities are complete.
Taenoyu a bath house recommended for women
There are 7 onsen inns at Nyuto Onsen at the foot of Mt. Nyuto.
Tsurunoyu Onsen, Taenoyu, Kuroyu Onsen, Ganiba Onsen, Magoroku Onsen, and Ookama Onsen at Kyukamura Nyuto Onsenkyo (Rest Town Nyuto Onsen area) each onsen has a different type of hot spring water that you can enjoy.
If you stay at any of these you can purchase what’s called a Yumeguricho (1500 JPY) basically a ticket to bathe in any of the different baths, and use the shuttle bus that goes back and forth to all the inns.
All of these inns allow visitor baths so you don’t have to be a guest at an inn and just enjoy the baths only.
The first place we recommend is Taenoyu. It is the most elaborate of the inns at Nyuto Onsen.
Even at the Koyokan rooms which have no bath or toilet, the building is very clean and you won’t worry about going to and fro.
Although I didn’t watch TV while I was there this is one of the rare places that has a TV in the room, it could be a deciding factor in choosing an inn.
It sets itself apart from other inns with services like the post check in tea and snacks. You can also feel the hospitality from the food that only uses local ingredients.
There are two sources of hot springs the Kin no Yu and Gin no Yu, and in the tub there are round rocks at the bottom for you to massage your feet on, and just inside Taenoyu alone you feel like you are onsen hopping.
Pictured above is the reserved bath. Watch the waters of Sendatsukawa River flow by, and listen to its roar while bathing. It is a pampering experience.
There is a women’s only time at the mixed outdoor bath at Taenoyu!
Taenoyu’s outdoor bath is said to have the most beautiful view.
Although it is manmade, the waterfall in front of you is dynamic and you can feel the rush of negative ions while you bathe.
At Taenoyu’s outdoor bath women can wear bath towels in the bath and there are 2 bath towels prepared for you in the room but you still need a bit of courage to go in the mixed bathing time.
When I visited this time there was a women’s only time set up so that the ladies didn’t have any worries.
Pictured above is the mixed bathing outdoor bath. On the left is the Kin no Yu, the right Gin no Yu.
Kin no Yu is acidic with magnesium and calcium. Because it is a sulfate spring there is a slight scent of sulfur and iron. Gin no Yu is a basic hot spring with very little smell.
Both hot spring sources are soft and have a slippery texture to the water, and you don’t get tired from bathing.
*The women only time set for the outdoor bath is as of August 2014. Please check with the inn if they still have this system before you go.
The mixed outdoor bath at Tsurunoyu which the Satake Clan Lord visisted needs some courage to bathe in
Tsurunoyu has the longest history here at Nyuto Onsen. The second generation lord of Dewa-Kubota han, Yoshitaka Satake is said to have visited here.
The rustic exterior with a spacious mixed outdoor bath it is a symbol of Nyuto Onsen.
The thatched roof “headquarters” where the Lord Satake’s guard slept is still there and you can sleep there to this day.
Although, there is no bath or toilet or TV and it is popular because it is like being back in the Edo Period! It is also well known for not being able to get reservations easily.
There are 4 different onsen baths here, Shiroyu, Kuroyu, Nakanoyu, and Takinoyu, each with its own type of water. But I recommend the Shiroyu hot spring bath. As the kanji means White water it is white and milky looking, with an alias of “bath of beauty”.
The Shiroyu hot spring water is used in the outdoor bath but, the Shiroyu indoors is just the right temperature that you will want to never get out of. The water here has a creamier texture that that of Taenoyu.
The mixed outdoor bath.
You have to pass through Nakanoyu at the back of the onsen building to get there, but while you are heading there, there is no wall or anything so everyone can see you.
Because the water is milky once you are in you don’t have to worry about people seeing you, but you may hesitate when the water is too hot and you don’t want to be fully in the bath.
The outdoor mixed bath can be accessed by going through the ladies Nakanayu bath but you aren’t allowed to wear towels into the bath so there is some hesitation when getting in too.
(but there were ladies that didn’t care and went in so why not try it yourself)
If you don’t want to push your limits go to the women only outdoor bath. It is spacious and you can enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains while you bathe in the white water without worry.
Also, Tsurunoyu is a traditional style bath, so there is no space just for washing. Before getting in make sure you rinse off well using the onsen water.
(for guests of the inn there is an indoor bath with a shower apparently.)
Staying the night at Tsurunoyu Onsen Bekkan Yamanoyado
It is hard to get a reservation at Tsurunoyu Onsen Honkan (main building).
But if you just have to get a taste of staying at Tsurunoyu, try Tsurunoyu Onsen Bekkan Yamanoyado which uses the same hot spring sources. If you stay at Yamanoyado you have the privilege of bathing during guest bathing hours.
If you can’t get a reservation at the main building or you can live without a toilet or bath then try out Yamanoyado.
Enjoying the hot spring bath alone is attractive enough at Tsurunoyu but feasting on the Yamanoimonabe stew that is their specialty or eating fresh local river trout grilled on the hearth in the main area is also a big part of the attractiveness of Yamanoyado.
The private bath at Tsurunoyu Bekkan Yamanoyado is highly recommended
At Yamanoyado there are men and women’s indoor baths as well as an outdoor bath that you can use privately.
This is also the Shiroyu onsen type (aka bath of beauty).
The private bath doesn’t have a reservation system but if is open you can go in and lock the door to make it private.
Many guests of Yamanoyado head to the main building to bathe leaving the private bath here open usually at night and the mornings.
The best thing to do here is bathing at night under the stars or while the morning sun washes down on you!
The very best time is in autumn to do this with the changing of the leaves the bathing experience is just that much more special.
One thing though is that there is no washing area here so you should clean yourself thoroughly in the bath in the guest room before coming here.
The end of the journey…
There are many other onsen inns other than Tsurnoyu or Taenoyu at Nyuto Onsen, but this time we introduced onsens that cater more towards women.
Because it isn’t the most famous of onsen towns, there are many things lacking in facilities, cell phone reception, etc but the good onsens and tasty treats here more than make up for those shortcomings.
If you would like to take a trip to immerse yourself in nature while you bathe, try going when during the upcoming autumn leaf changing season.
History
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