Soak in Water From Two Different Hot Springs at Ryounkaku, Hokkaido’s Highest-Elevated Onsen

Eastbound on Hwy. 291

The onsen is about 20 minutes drive from Kamifurano Station along the winding roads of Hokkaido’s Highway 291. The scenery begins to change on the drive up, as the surrounding peaks draw closer and the clouds and foliage sway in the mountain wind.

You could be forgiven for doubting that there’s even an onsen way up here, but fear not – there is, so just follow your map and keep going up and up. The wait is worth it.

A view unique to Ryounkaku

There are two rotenburo (outdoor baths) for both females and males, built right into the mountainside. Soaking in the tea-brown, cloudy water and letting it cover the entire body is a great way to forget about the stress of everyday life.

The baths are surrounded by stunning scenery, unique because of the 1,280m elevation of the onsen. Looking out, the peaks of the surrounding mountains feel close.

Clouds float in the breeze all around; it’s a fantasy-like environment.

Each season has its own scenic offerings, with fresh foliage in the spring, more mature greenery in the summer, gorgeous fall colors in autumn, and Hokkaido’s famous powder snow in winter.

Natural hot spring water from two separate sources

The picture above is of the women’s bath, but the tile design is similar for the men’s bath as well. There are two separate bathtubs, one with transparent water and one brown colored, cloudy water. The reason for this is that they’re from separate sources. The clear water was the first to be excavated, and the brown water was brought into use later.

The clear water comes from an iron-based spring, with the water comprised of sulfuric acid ions and calcium, which is said to be good for cuts and skin disorders and has other positive effects on the skin.

The cloudy brown water is saline, comprised of sulfuric acid, calcium, and sodium. It is said to be good for improving circulation, increasing and retention of body heat, and the opening of blood vessels.

Both baths are said to be beneficial for nerve related pain, sore muscles, high blood pressure, arteriorsclerosis, fatigue, cuts, skin disorders, and chills.

The water is all natural, and an incredible 250 liters is said to gush forth from the springs each minute.

Gaze out at the town of Kamifurano

There’s an observation area where guests can peer all the way to Kamifurano, a small town. I took the picture above, but it was too cloudy to see all the way there, unfortunately.

You can see some snow at the mountaintops all the way through early spring, and fall foliage can be seen around September to October.

There’s no doubt that climbers of Mt. Tokachi and backcountry skiers are grateful for Ryounkaku’s mountaintop location!

Ryounkaku’s history

The original owner of Ryounkaku was a local sign maker named Kyuzaemon Aida. In 1960, while he was traveling around Mt. Furano and Mt. Tokachi, he discovered the hot spring on Mt. Tokachi by pure coincidence.

“If there was an onsen hotel here, travelers and climbers would be so happy. It’s the perfect place for people to rest and recover”, he thought, and decided to build the onsen the following year. He hired workers for the excavation of the spring, which took about three months. The hotel and onsen building were built at the same time as the excavation and construction of the necessary plumbing for the hot spring, which was done by hand. The entire project is said to have been done with nothing but human and horse power, loading and unloading materials after a trek along the 7 kilometer long mountain road.

A commander of the military forces for the Japanese National Self Defense Force stationed nearby came to the onsen after it was built, and was struck by the superb outdoor baths and amount of effort that went into its construction. He incorporated the building of the road leading to the onsen as a part of military training for his soldiers.

The onsen officially opened in July 1963, with the name Ryounkaku chosen to mean “the onsen that surpasses even the clouds”.

More info on the onsen is available on their website, but unfortunately there is no English version available. This place is well off the beaten tourist path, which is even more reason to visit!