The town of Te Anau is located next to a lake with the same name, the largest lake in the whole of New Zealand’s South Island. The town’s lakeside overlooks Fiordland National Park and offers outdoors activities and is also frequented as a departure point for tramping tracks in Fiordland. Many tourists on sightseeing trips travelling to Milford Sound or further south along the west coast might be tempted to just give Te Anau little more than just a brief stop. However, rather than quickly going through, travellers should consider spending a day there and explore the glow worm cave.
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Crossing the lake to the glow worm cave
The glow worm cave is located on the other side of Lake Te Anau. It is only accessible via ferry. Tickets can be purchased on the spot although online booking is recommended to avoid disappointment. The ferry departs from the Real Journey Visitor Centre next to the Te Anau lakeside several times a day during summer and twice a day during winter. Whether you decide to go during the day or late evening, it does not affect your chances of seeing the glow worms.
The price is 85.00 NZD or approx. 61.00 USD per person and 22.00 NZD or approx. 15.83 USD per child. Any child under the age of five may enter free of charge when accompanied by a paying adult, but the tour is not suitable for infants. Note that prices are a few dollars higher in the summer than during the winter.
The tour takes about two hours and fifteen minutes including the boat ride from Te Anau. If you are coming from Queenstown, add another three hours to have enough travel time.
Subterranean wonder
Glow worms are actually the larval form of the fungus gnat fly. They create sticky mucus and hang like fishing lines from the cave’s surface. The bioluminescence glow, a by-product of their excretion, is used to attract tiny insects. Once the prey is caught in the sticky fishing lines, the glow worms will haul up its prey to feed. Glow worms are only able to feed during the larval stage as the adult form has no mouth.
Arriving at the cave, you will be given a brief on safety and conduct. Any photography is prohibited inside the cave, including the use of mobile phones.
As you enter the cave, the ceiling is rather low. Walking along the narrow passage on a steel walkway, the cave gradually opens up as the ceiling gets higher. There is a subterranean river under the steel walkways, gushing its way through the rocks and continuously shaping the cave. The little presence of light is noticeable inside the cave and the walkways are partially lit with fluorescent lights. Going farther into the cave, small clusters of glow worms are visible but it is not until you reach the last big opening that you will get to witness the phenomenon at its fullest.
You will get onto small narrow boats, sitting back to back with other visitors. There are ropes attached on the side of the cave’s walls so that the guide can navigate the boat around, all this without any help of an engine that could disturb the glow worms. As the guide switches off his head lamp, your eyes will start to adjust to the darkness. Hundreds if not thousands of luminescent blue specks light up the walls and the ceilings, forming constellations like the night sky. The glow from the worms is so bright that you could see it reflecting in the water. In contrast to the loud sound of water earlier, in this deeper and calmer part of the cave, visitors are asked to stay silent in order to enjoy this magnificent wonder. Once the tour is finished, you will exit the same way you came. Complimentary warm drinks and biscuits are provided at the visitor’s centre.
It is damp and wet inside, so make sure that you have warm waterproof clothing, especially if you plan to visit after dark. The steel walkways are often damp from dripping water and water sprays from the running water below so make sure you wear shoes with good grips. Be prepared that you will sometimes have to duck or go up some flights of stairs.
A pie not to be missed
Another must-visit location in Te Anau is just a mere five minutes walk from the Real Journey Visitor Centre. A small ordinary-looking shop from outside, Miles Better Pies packs a lot more than its size. With its large selection of homemade pies from local venison meat to beef and chicken, Miles Better Pies is a heaven for meat lovers. Highly recommended is the venison pie, with big chunks of juicy meat in gravy sauce. Another one for meat lovers is the lamb and mint pie. Neither will disappoint and they are served warm. There’s also an apple and blueberry pie to cater to those looking for something sweet. One thing to note is that the shop only accepts local bank cards or cash.
The seating area in the shop is a bit small but on a good day, the lakeside is just a few steps away and you’d have a view of the Fiordland National Park while enjoying a delicious pie or two.
The pies cost 6.50 NZD or approx. 4.68 USD each and they are on the large side, enough for a quick delightful lunch or save it to eat on the way.
More than a pit stop
Despite its size, Te Anau is a location that is more than what it seems. It has its own charms and sights. With its relaxing lakeside that overlooks the Fiordland National Park and the amazing glow worm cave, Te Anau should not be missed. And don’t forget to grab a Miles Better Pies or you can’t really say that you’ve had the best pies in New Zealand.
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