Vaux-le-Vicomte – Where Magical Beauty Meets The Turbulent History

Vaux-le-Vicomte – Where Magical Beauty Meets The Turbulent History
Zoran
Zoran 
Updated
| 4 min read

Uniqueness of the château Vaux-le-Vicomte lies in the fact that its style and beauty had inspired the creation of the much more famous Versailles, the favourite residence of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Unlike Versailles, however, Vaux-le-Vicomte’s turbulent history reveals a great deal of treachery and misfortune brought to its owners and, especially, its creator. In its case, the statement that “great beauty comes only with the great price” couldn’t be truer.

Vaux-le-Vicomte’s history in a few words

vaux-le-vicomte – where magical beauty meets the turbulent history | vaux-le-vicomte’s history in a few words

The creator of this magnificent chateau was Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV’s Superintendent of Finances, who was a great patron of art. He was a longtime ally of Louis XIV, the one that played an important role in quelling the Fronde nobility uprising against the young king (1648), when Louis XIV had only 10 years. Notwithstanding, he was betrayed by the king himself in 1661, and imprisoned for a lifetime in the arranged trial. In the king’s defence, he was manipulated by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, whose high ambitions couldn’t afford Fouquet on his way. However, even Louis XIV had an indirect personal interest in Fouquet’s downfall.

The alternate version of Fouquet’s imprisonment is related to the party (August 1661) he organized for the king in the most beautiful chateau in France and its splendid gardens. It’s said that Louis XIV was so envious that Vaux-le-Vicomte was much more beautiful than anything in his possession that he, once Nicolas Fouquet was brought to the trial, took over the team that created such a splendour (Louis Le Vau, Charles Le Brun and Andre Le Notre), and commissioned it to create the Versailles.

In the following centuries, Vaux-le-Vicomte was the residence of marshal Hector de Villars, Duke of Praslin, etc. After the Duke, some of its owners were unable to maintain the property, while others weren’t interested, and the chateau and its gardens fell to decline. In the First World War, the palace was used as a hospital. From 1968 onward, Vaux-le-Vicomte is permanently opened to the public as museum.

Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte

vaux-le-vicomte – where magical beauty meets the turbulent history | chateau vaux-le-vicomte

The chateau’s appealing design features completely different front and back façades. As you enter the palace through its main entrance, a spectacular view on the gardens through the windows of a semicircular hall at the back is going to amaze you. The palace features basement, ground and first level, with a vantage point atop the structure that offers extraordinary views of the entire property.

Throughout the chateau, you can discover the history of Vaux-le-Vicomte in detail, witness its opulent yet elegant design, familiarize with certain extraordinary personalities related to the palace, etc. Famous poet La Fontaine, for example, who was Fouquet’s close friend, warned him about his potential demise. Unfortunately, Nicolas rejected the notion blatantly, believing he was in the king’s good graces. An extensive exhibition dedicated to La Notre and his work is displayed in the basement, as well as a period kitchen. A separate chamber is dedicated to Marshal Villars, Grand Conde and Marshal Turenne, who proved themselves as extraordinary military leaders at some turning points in French history.

Sumptuous decoration of most rooms features stucco ornamentation, wall and ceiling paintings, huge tapestries, stylish furniture and busts of renowned French people throughout centuries. Certain artworks, like muses in the Muses’ Room, represent the topmost masterpieces of Le Brun’s work. On the other hand, Le Grand Salon, measuring 18 x 18 meters (longitude and height) was conceived as if to place the honoured visitors in the centre of the universe, which never occurred due to Fouquet’s downfall. In the salon, the caryatids representing twelve Zodiac signs and busts of distinguished people can be easily recognized.

Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte’s gardens

vaux-le-vicomte – where magical beauty meets the turbulent history | chateau vaux-le-vicomte’s gardens

The gardens of the chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte were the first masterpiece of the celebrated French landscape architect Andre Le Notre. The man who invented the French formal-style garden improved the optical illusion approach, which resulted in the infinite space sensation. As you walk its terraced gardens, you’ll discover ponds, flower beds and geometric patterns (featuring various shapes) previously concealed from an ordinary eye. So, once you leave the chateau encircled by a water canal, take your time to explore the splendid gardens dotted with sculptures, fountains, additional canals, alleys and hidden paths.

As you make your way through majestic gardens, you’ll discover huge amphorae with flowers, sculptures inspired with mythological events (abduction of Europe by Zeus, for example), deities or people (Hercules), wild animals (lions), etc. As you approach the hill from which the huge statue of Hercules oversees the chateau and the gardens, you’ll discover grottos symbolizing different things. In the Water Mirror, you can admire the reflections of the chateau, dry grotto and other beauties yet to be discovered.

Annual events at Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte

Château de Vaux le Vicomte
Source: Photo by user Corentin Foucaut used under CC BY-ND 2.0

Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte organizes special events for its visitors all year round.

Christmas is celebrated in the chateau with crackling fire in the fireplaces, Christmas trees, lights and joyful atmosphere through December until early January. If you happen to be here on Easter, join the Egg hunt in the gardens. At the end of May, the favourite activities of the past take place in the gardens. The 18th century is revived through period costumes, which can be rented as part of the Grand Siecle show, baroque dances, horse performances, and more.

The Candlelit Evenings, held every Saturday night from May to October, are especially enchanting and romantic events. The entire chateau and gardens are illuminated by the light of hundreds of candles, evoking the special atmosphere Nicolas Fouquet had conceived for his dear guests. The crowning experience of this magical event is ensured by great fireworks.

Prepare your visit

To reach the Vaux-le-Vicomte, you should alight the train from Paris (Gare de Lyon) at the Melun station, and catch the shuttle bus next to it (8 EUR/ 8.90 USD, round trip). Working hours are from 10:00 till 18:00, with prolonged hours for the special events. The full price is 16.50 EUR (18.40 USD), while admission for the Candlelit Evenings is 19.50 EUR (21.70 USD).

The chateau and the attached gardens can be easily toured within 6 hours, but such a majestic property certainly deserves each additional hour you can afford.

Disclosure: Trip101 selects the listings in our articles independently. Some of the listings in this article contain affiliate links.

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In Zoran's writing career, he extensively covers global destinations and travel companies, examining cities, regions, countries, and cruising entities. Beyond sharing knowledge, he engages with...Read more

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