The ancient city of Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon) has so many sites for the attentive stroller to observe that it would be a shame give it a miss. See the big name pagodas and parks by all means, but also spare some time for the street scenes unfolding across the city as seen at the foot of colonial architecture both large and small, and also in the local enclaves where life moves forth blissfully ignorant of Myanmar’s recent anointing as darling of Southeast Asia.
If you’re not sure about doing much walking, take a look at the traffic
Yangon has a serious traffic situation. The right roads at the right times with the right amount of luck can make for smooth sailing, but alas lady luck and circumstances will not always be on your side. Crossing streets can be hairy, so use overpasses when possible, which come with the added benefit of views like the one pictured above. Here, along the riverfront boulevard, you can spy some grand dames of British architecture.
Head a bit towards the interior for the markets
Pop down a side street to see the locals at commerce. You’ll find everything under the blazing southeast Asian sun on offer here. Raw vegetables and rice for preparation at home stands besides ready-to-eat goodies such as fried crab, slow cooked meat and veggies on skewers, and a local, filled crepe type creation. But it’s more than just about the food on offer: Notice the red shirted man’s skirt-like “longyi,” a very popular alternative to pants in Myanmar. While walking around, avoid any wet red spots on the ground, as these are most likely betel chewers’ spit. You knew it was going to be an adventure, right?
Stop by some stores and check out the apartment buildings
The locals are exceedingly friendly, so you should not hesitate to take a peek inside some of the stores, grab a bite at a sidewalk cafe, or just poke around and check out the aging buildings. Take the time really check out the hodgepodge of architectural styles. Over the years, a style has evolved mixing local needs with European influences.
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The riverside has not only sights and sounds, but a few smells as well
The Yangon River may not be quite what you are expecting. The area along the banks can be downright filthy, and there’s a bit of a shanty feel in parts, but if you’re in the neighborhood just before sunset, it’s worth a quick look-see, especially since it’s so easy to get to. Walk out a big onto a pier or gangplank for a closeup look at some of the boats that ply the river.
Enough walking. Time for a beer and some delicious local food.
After you’ve petered out from puttering around, head over to the 17th to 24th streets area towards the river side. Here you’ll find quality, affordable restaurants with grilled foods, great seafood, and oh so much more. Cold beers are also at the ready, served by waiters who are actually very friendly, despite how they sometimes photograph. Recommended dishes include grilled meat skewers, whole fried fish with sweet and spicy chili sauce, and fried noodle dishes.
Your street education has given you its all
Big buildings, crazy drivers, sights, sounds, smells, good food, eye-opening marketplaces, all enjoyable on this easy stroll. Feel the salt of the earth and learn much about the land and its people. You can go to that famous pagoda tomorrow.
Your adventure should be framed by Bogyoke Market in the north, the river on the south, and include the small streets between river and market (but closer to the river is better) that run off the east and, more so, to the west
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