

The Cognacq-Jay is a unique and special museum for Paris. The collection counts about 1,200 pieces, a small number for a Parisian museum, but the variety of the pieces and the fact that the museum was formed entirely from a private collection compensate for its size. Cognacq-Jay is also unique in that it doesn’t present a specific artistic style or medium, but rather showcases a historical era through an individual’s perspective and the trends of the time. When touring the museum, you will be swept away by its beautiful decor. In addition, you will encounter paintings, statues, and furniture which illustrate popular 18th-century themes such as: exoticism, the role of Paris as an artistic hotspot, and the changing roles of women.
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Discover the museum’s fascinating history
The museum’s founders and namesakes were Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise Jay, a couple of modest means who greatly changed the face of Paris in the 19th and 20th centuries. Together, they created one of Paris’ grandest department stores, the Samaritan. It was one of the first department stores in Paris and revolutionized shopping in the capital. Thanks to their business successes, the couple was able to amass an impressive art collection between 1885 and 1920.
Starting in 1925, Cognacq displayed pieces from his collection in a building next to his store. The City of Paris inherited his collection upon his death in 1928 and created the museum not long after. Originally housed next to the Samaritan, the museum was moved to the Marais neighborhood of Paris in the early 1980s. Since 1990, the museum is housed in L'Hotel Donon, a large, freestanding townhouse dating back to 1575.
Delight in the beautifully decorated museum
Due to its former usage as a private home, the museum continues to resemble a luxurious private dwelling, with the collection divided among homey salons across three floors. Upon entering the building, you’ll forget that you’re in a museum. The walls are decorated in cool colors and wood paneling, china is displayed in cabinets, and fireplaces are adorned with decorative objects. On the second floor, ornate chandeliers hang from almost every ceiling, beautiful tapestries cover the parquet flooring, and velvet-covered benches dot the rooms. This open and accessible style makes for both a beautiful and an inviting visit.
Admire the unique and varied collection
The Cognacqs were not professional art collectors, but rather relied on their personal tastes, trends from the era, and advice from art connoisseurs of the time. Because of this, the museum’s collection is incredibly diverse. Upon entering the first room, visitors are greeted by statues paying ode to the Roman Empire. In the next room, dubbed Exoticism, various porcelain objects from all corners of the globe abound. These objects highlight the fascination with new discoveries in the 18th century, a fascination that was in stark contrast to previously insular European societies. Delicate figurines and china in the third room highlight Paris’ wealth during this time period as well as the importance of its role in the ever-growing art market. Portraits of women dominating the final rooms display their changing societal roles. Even though they remained mostly limited in their roles as wives and mothers, the emergence of female portraits in the 18th century shows the growing importance of women in the art world.
Take a detour at the Cognacq-Jay Museum
This little-known and almost hidden museum is often overlooked by tourists and Parisians alike. However, its fascinating history, beautiful decor, and vast collection deserve to be recognized and visited. While you’re in the Marais area, make sure you stop by for a visit. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 AM to 6.00 PM. It can be reached via subway line 1, getting off at Saint-Paul. Entry is free for all, but donations are welcomed.
History
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