Enter North Korea With A Visit To The Joint Security Area

Enter into Camp Bonifas and the Joint Security Area

The first stop on the JSA (Panmunjom in Korean) tour is Camp Bonifas. This area is manned by United Nations (UN), South Korean, and American troops. It is the military base for soldiers charged with patrolling the JSA. After having your passport checked by military personnel, you will be escorted to an auditorium for a video and a lecture about the area. This lecture briefly explains the conflicts leading to the Korean War, the construction of the DMZ, and the current state of North and South Korean relations. After the lecture, all visitors must sign a contract saying they accept the risks involved with visiting this highly volatile area.

After signing the liability form, you will be escorted outside to the JSA. The signing of this form, paired with the passport checks and various warnings about not interacting with North Korean soldiers create a serious and somewhat nerve-wracking experience.

The JSA is the only place where North Korean and South Korean troops stand face to face. Each country is allowed a maximum of 35 soldiers at any given time. The area is small, about 800 meters (2,625 feet) wide and houses UN buildings and a North Korean-operated building called Panmungak. Visitors are allowed to take pictures of the blue UN buildings, the North Korean buildings, and the soldiers, but you are only given about two minutes to do so.

Step into North Korea

After snapping as many pictures as you can, you will be escorted to the Military Armistice Commission (MAC) Conference Room, which is housed in one of the blue buildings. It is here that North and South Korean leaders meet and negotiate. The room is very small and is tightly packed with conference tables. One table lies directly across the Military Demarcation Line, a physical border between North and South Korea. Visitors are allowed to pass this line, thereby entering North Korea. They are also allowed to take pictures with North Korean soldiers.

The experience is rather surreal and intense. Visitors are given multiple warnings about not touching the tables, UN flags, or the soldiers. The North Korean soldiers stand at attention and sport dark sunglasses to obscure their eyes. They do not move, even when surrounded by a tour group taking pictures with them.

Learn about the complicated history at the Freedom House

After visiting North Korea, visitors are escorted back to the Freedom House. This building was constructed in 1965 as a meeting place for reunited families. Unfortunately it has never been used for this purpose. Upstairs it houses a small exhibit about the history of the JSA, including several incidents in which defectors or soldiers were killed. There are short films, displays, and memorabilia that illustrate the story. While small, this area is worth spending a few minutes exploring as it will enrich your understanding of the area. The ground floor of the Freedom House houses a gift shop featuring clothing, books, and other memorabilia. Part of the profits go to supporting the UN troops stationed at the JSA.