Living Dias De Los Muertos In Oaxaca, Mexico

A little history

Dias de los Muertos are two or more days of celebrations honoring the dead. While celebrated in most Latin American countries, Dias de los Muertos is most strongly associated with Mexico, especially the cities of Patzcuaro and Oaxaca where the traditions originated and continue to be big events today.

The celebrations combine indigenous Aztec rituals with Catholicism, the predominant religion in Mexico introduced by the Spanish conquerors.

Early settlers were taught the dead would be insulted by the mourning or sadness of their remaining family members. Dia de los Muertos, therefore, celebrates the lives of the deceased with food, drink, parties, and music the deceased enjoyed in life. The ceremonies recognize death as a natural part of the human experience – life begins at birth, continues through childhood, and culminates with becoming a contributing member of the local community. The dead are a part of these communities and awaken from their eternal sleep to share the celebrations of their loved ones on the Dia de los Muertos.

Prominent symbols of the celebration are the calacas (skeletons) and calaveras (skulls). These appear in décor, candies, parade masks and costumes, dolls, and as faces painted on the local people – both children and adults. These calacas and calaveras are usually depicted as enjoying life with fancy clothes while entertaining.

Xoxocotlan, Mexico

One of the largest celebrations occurs in Xoxocotlan (near Oaxaca City) where events begin on the last day of October.

The celebrations start midday in the Zocolo (similar to a city center) as it fills with people of all nationalities and ages. Bubbles float through the air as children of all ages energetically frolick with high bouncing balloons. Local concherros (native dancers) set up an altar to honor their dead and perform ritual ceremonies and dances for the crowds while Mariachi musicians wander the streets playing impromptu selections for the people. Local artists use heavy theatrical paint to paint “Katrina” faces on people preparing for the evening activities including parties and cemetery visits.

After engaging in the ritual with hundreds of others, I head to the Xoxocotlan Cemetery in Santa Cruz, Xoxocotlan, an area about 15 minutes from the Zocolo, late in the afternoon.

The cleaning of the tombs begins in the early afternoon and continues until dusk. Arriving before dusk, you can witness families cleaning the grave sites of their loved ones while bringing wheelbarrows filled with cempasuchitl (marigold-like flowers), brilliant red cockscomb, candles and votives, copal incense, and the favorite foods of the deceased. Many altars include a photo of the departed to guide their loved ones to the site (they want to ensure the right spirit is attracted to the offerings.) The family carefully arranges the items in sometimes elaborate altars around the gravesite believing these gifts will entice the spirit to return and visit the family.

Once cleaned and decorated, families gather to light the candles and incense. The family members sing and talk in serene and reflective tones, paying no mind to visitors. Many of the families will remain graveside for the entire night in a vigil to the spirits.

I recommend wandering around the cemetery to observe the preparations and note the dates on the various gravestones. Graves range from very old to very recently buried. Dates inscribed on the markers indicate some very long lives, and some very short ones as well. Without even looking at the dates, the size of the plot frequently indicates children have died. I brought cempasuchitl and several votives to honor a site whose family is not present to honor them, and I recommend you to do the same! I don’t know these people but feel they deserve to be honored on this day as well. I chose graves appearing neglected or without family to honor them to leave my gifts.

Crowds of people, young and old, fill the cemetery to crowded capacity by 10PM. The sounds of voices, singing (sometimes very off-key singing), music, sharing, and crying mingle as the celebrations begin. Mariachi musicians stroll from grave site to grave site offering to play a favorite song for the deceased. These musicians are working while also honoring the deceased, they are tipped by the families for their services. Mariachi music is an essential part of the celebration as it is to the Mexican culture. The atmosphere is almost enchanting in a strange sort of way. It is a cemetery, but it is full of life rather than death.

There are two cemeteries in Xoxocotlan – Cementario Viejo (the old cemetery) and Cementario Nuevo (the new cemetery). A short walk through the streets crowded with people brings me to the second cemetery, the older one. Along the way, I pass several street altars of detailed and elaborate drawings using colored sand. Most depict a religious saint or person of significance. Arriving at the arch of the old cemetery, the atmosphere is much the same. This one, much like the first, is crowded with people. The gravesites are older and there are fewer decorated sites, fewer family celebrations.

The entryway is marked by aged iron and stone columns. A still-standing ancient arch of the old cemetery chapel reminds me of being in an archeological site. The chapel’s adobe walls are crumbling and supported with wood timbers. The chapel was built in the 17th century, but its foundation dates to the early 1500’s. What remains is a shell, open to the sky, while within the walls are several centuries old gravesites. Cemetario Viejo is densely packed with grave sites; there is sometimes no path between the graves. On this night is is ablaze with candles and copal incense as families hold a vigil for the elder spirits to visit. As with the other cemetery, some gravesites have elaborate decorations while others lay bare.

Outside the cemetery walls, many vendors offer a wide variety of refreshments during the night near the Xoxocotlan cemeteries – they are popular tourist attractions during these three days so smart business people can make some money. Selections include traditional Mexican foods, candles, baked goods, flowers, candies, and beverages. There is even live entertainment from local theatre and band groups at both sites.

November 1st is Dia de los Inocentes, specifically to honor children who have died. The graves are decorated with white orchids or lilies and baby’s breath.

Practical tips

If you don’t like crowds of people, Panteon Antiguo is an old cemetery just a few blocks from the Zocolo. The rituals and experience here is much the same but with one noticeable difference – the people buried here are of a lower class. The grave markers are smaller, if there is one at all. Some are a simple wooden cross carved with the name and date of death. The altars, while still including the bright yellow and red flowers, are smaller. The candles are simple and the intense smell of incense is absent.

But, the people here are just as vigilant in their ceremonies proud of their deceased while being just as friendly and welcoming as the previous night.

How to get to Xoxocotlan: It is an easy drive if you have a car, but parking is extremely limited so be prepared to walk. A much easier way is to take a bus (which runs until 10PM) or by taxi. There is a central taxi stop in Xoxocotlan but if you don’t want a long wait to return from the cemetery, it is wise to make arrangements in advance with a driver. You will need some level of Spanish as most taxi drivers do not speak English. The cost of the taxi is 5-7 USD one way.

If you are planning to stay overnight during the week of Dias de los Muertos, make your reservations before you arrive. It is easier to find hotel accommodations in Oaxaca; Patzcuaro accommodations require at least a one year in advance reservation for most establishments. Many locals offer rooms for rent during the week so this may be a more authentic and economical solution.

Photographs are permitted without a flash to be as unobtrusive as possible. For courtesy, ask before you take any photos, but most people will not mind at all.