As you stray further from the tourist circuit in Spain and begin exploring villages off the beaten path, accommodations become fewer and far between. Many of them failing to show up on popular booking services.
Mas del Cigarrer is the perfect example. The rustic guesthouse is located outside of Horta de Sant Joan – a village important in the study of Pablo Picasso’s life. Most sites list Mas del Cigarrer as a mediocre restaurant, failing to mention that it’s also a comfortable and charming guesthouse.
Quaint and comfortable accommodations
Guests at Mas del Cigarrer stay in one of two rustic, stone cottages. The larger of the two cottages, Mas Nou, consists of four double bedrooms and one triple bedroom, each with its own private bathroom. There’s also a giant, shared living room with plenty of comfortable couches to relax in after a day of exploring.
The smaller of the two cottages, Mas Petit, houses an apartment for four people on the ground floor, plus two additional guest rooms on the second floor – a double and a quad. Both second floor bedrooms have their own bathroom. Rooms in the two cottages can be rented out individually or the entire house can be reserved. Rates start at 80 EUR (approximately 90 USD). All of the accommodations were remodeled in 2010, ensuring guests a modern, clean, and comfortable stay.
A great location for exploring the villages of Horta de Sant Joan and Bot
The real reason for staying at Mas del Cigarrer is not for the comfortable accommodations. The real reason to stay at Mas del Cigarrer is access to the villages and outdoor attractions of the Terres de L’Ebre region. As mentioned earlier, the hotel is located near the historic village of Horta de Sant Joan, where Picasso spent many of his summers as a teenager and later invented cubism. The village hosts a museum in his honor.
There’s also plenty in the region for those seeking outdoor adventures. An old railway route that runs through the region has been converted into a greenway. A popular activity is to rent bikes and spend the day visiting the various towns and villages along the route. The hotel even offers a stay and bicycle package (I couldn’t find the price though). Additional activities in the area include mountain climbing, trekking, and kayaking.
Healthy and local foods
Full disclosure – food is where the hotel seems to be lacking. While its website boasts that the restaurant uses only local, seasonal ingredients, its actual output is mediocre. It wasn’t the worst food I ate in Spain, but it was far from the best. It’s definitely not bad enough to stay elsewhere or to outright avoid if you do book at Mas del Cigarrer. I’d recommend it if you aren’t a foodie or are looking for an easy meal without the hassle of leaving the hotel ground.
Start your exploration at Mas del Cigarrer
Mas del Cigarrer isn’t a resort. It’s not a place to check into for a few days with no desire to leave the grounds. It doesn’t need to be either. There is so much to do in Terres de L’Ebre, that the hotel serves its purpose as a comfortable place to rest your head between adventures.
History
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