The historical city where Perry and Ryoma arrived! A walk around Izu Shimoda

Start your trip at Nesugatayama and look down to the city which was loved by famous people

Begin your trip by taking Shimoda Ropeway right in front of Izukyu-Shimoda station and go to the top of Nesugatayama to enjoy the panorama view of the city. Nesugatayama Nature Park is located on the top and you can easily see Shimoda’s port where the black ships came.

But it’s not all about the panorama view. Couples can pray for love at Aizendo temple, an energy spot where the Buddhist deity of love Aizen-Myoo is worshipped. You can write your wish on a heart-shaped wish plaque. You can also pray for kids, safe birth, domestic matters and business prosperity.

Students who are about to sit an exam soon can pray at the energy spot of Ishiwari-kusunoke. It is a camphor tree which split a big rock into two pieces to grow up, so similarly you will be bestowed power to overcome any hurdle!

There are many other natural or historical spots at Nesugatayama that you can spend a long time exploring. By the way, the name Nesugatayama (sleeping posture mountain) comes from the fact that the mountain resembles a lying female figure. Sexy mountain!

The beautiful little Perry Road where you can feel the spirit of the last shogunate days

Perry Road is the beautiful little stone-paved street along Hiraname river where typical Izu Shimoda-style houses stand next to namako-wall buildings (white grid pattern on a black slate). The street is about 15 minutes on foot from Izukyu-Shimoda station.

Perry Road leads from Shimoda Park to Ryosenji temple for about 700 meters. After arriving with his black ships, Commodore Perry walked on this street to reach Ryosenji where the Shimoda Treaty was signed. Nowadays the street is a popular touristic attraction with its many antique shops and cafés. If you find a shop you like, feel free to enter.

Shimoda Park is a well-known spot to see hydrangea flowers. Over 150 000 flowers bloom in the summer resulting in a fantastic view which I recommend to see! Note: Check the link below for another article about Shimoda Park’s hydrangea flowers.

Ryosenji temple, where the Shimoda Treaty was signed

At the end of Perry Road is Ryosenji temple, built in 1635 by the Nichiren Buddhist sect. It is the place where the Shimoda Treaty was signed. Over 1000 American jasmines grow in the temple grounds and bloom around May-June, making the temple known also as the “jasmine temple”. The entire place is designated as a national historic site.

Shimoda Treaty prepared the signing of the Kanagawa Treaty which happened one year later when the black ships came to Yokohama. It also established the rights of Americans to walk freely in Shimoda and was the trigger for the development of the US-Japan relations. Ryosenji temple is also known as the place where the first Western music concert happened, after the American military band held a performance inside.

Those who have an interest in history should also visit Ryosenji’s treasure house where many items related to the country’s foundation are exhibited. You can learn a lot about the ancient culture and habits. There is also a display of Buddhist images related to religion and sexuality which the priests of the past collected privately!

Sawamura Residence, a typical namako-wall style house

Shimoda is a city where you can see many houses with namako-wall style black and white grids. The construction framework is covered with many layers of clay, then roof tiles are placed, and finally the joints are decorated with mortar in semi-cylindrical shapes. Named “namako-wall” because it resembles sea cucumbers (namako), this architectural style has a history of 100-200 years.

One such namako-wall style house is Sawamura Residence along the Perry Road. Back then the mayor and manager of the shipbuilding industry lived in the house which is now open to the public as a museum. You can drink a cup of tea while watching the interior and the garden from inside. It’s recommended also as a place to have a short rest.

Houfukuji temple, where Ryoma Sakamoto began his campaign

Izu Shimoda is widely known as the place where Commodore Perry’s black ships arrived, but do you know that the city is also related to the story of Ryoma Sakamoto?

In 1863, several years after the black ships arrived, the feudal lord of Tosa clan Yamauchi Toyoshige and the samurai Katsu Kaishu had a meeting at Shimoda’s Tofukuji temple. The reason for their meeting was to discuss Ryoma Sakamoto’s leaving the Tosa clan. Kaishu asked Toyoshige to forgive Ryoma’s sin and let him take care of the former samurai. Toyoshige, knowing that Kaishu cannot drink alcohol, told him that he would agree if Kaiju drank all of the sake served. Kaishu did that without hesitation, and thus Ryoma was allowed to leave his feudal lord.

Tofukuji has another story too. It is the place where the grave of Saito Kichi is located. She was a dramatic historical figure also known as Tojin Okichi, who worked for America’s General Consul Harris. Okichi became Harris’ mistress, officially sent by the governor of Shimoda as a nurse. However, she was dismissed after only 3 days. Back then Japanese people felt a big shame from giving themselves to foreigners, therefore Okichi had to endure the cold attitude of everyone around her. In the end her business went down, she succumbed to alcohol and finally drowned herself to death in a river at the age of 48. A dark story in the otherwise blooming period of Japan’s history.

In Tofukuji temple there is a statue of Ryoma Sakamoto, as well as a small museum with items and photos of Okichi and Harris. Okichi’s grave is also there, so you can say a short prayer. Tofukuji temple is about 5 minutes’ walk from Izukyu-Shimoda station.