A Guide To Chemin Des Douaniers, Antibes

1. Highlights

Chemin des Douaniers goes by many names. You may also hear it called Le Sentier du Littoral or Tire-Poil Trail, a nickname that is a French play on words describing how the wind pulls at your hair! Chemin des Douaniers roughly translates to “the smugglers’ path,” and it is so breathtakingly gorgeous that you will feel as if you are getting away with something special just by visiting! Here are some of the highlights of the trail.

Hike the trail

Chemin des Douaniers begins as a footpath off Plage de la Garoupe Beach. The path starts off as a paved walkway but eventually turns into a rocky trail. It winds through switchbacks, up and down some stairs, and near the edge of tall cliffs, which are some of the reasons why it is closed in bad weather. However, the trail is doable by people of all ages and skill levels as long as you bring a good pair of sneakers! The tiredness your legs feel is a small price to pay compared to the stunning beauty along Chemin des Douaniers. From the path, you will be able to see the bright blue waters of Baie de la Garoupe, the islands of Lérins, and the snow-capped mountains of Mercantour and the Alps. Along the path itself, there are dramatic limestone cliffs, waves thundering against the rocks, and many small beach coves where you can dip your toes in the sea on a warm day. The entire loop from Garoupe Beach is about 5 km (3.1 miles) long and takes most people about two hours to complete.

Catch sight of local wildlife

Chemin des Douaniers is home to many animals–on land, in the sea, and in the air! Some of the most exciting animals to catch sight of from the trail are dolphins. These playful sea creatures can sometimes be seen splashing and jumping in the water off the trail. The best times of day to see dolphins are in the early morning or early evening, so plan your walk accordingly if you’re trying to catch a glimpse. You’ll have to turn your eyes upward to see the other prized creature of Chemin des Douaniers, the peregrine falcon! These birds are the fastest in the world when they dive. Recently, a pair of peregrine falcons set up home in the limestone cliffs near the water. You might catch sight of them soaring around Villa Eilenroc.

Observe the local plants and flowers

Along the trail, you will see many beautiful plants that are local to the area. Chemin des Douaniers is a site of natural heritage, and flora observations have discovered six protected plant species! To keep hikers from trampling these protected plants, wooden barriers have been placed around areas where these rare species are growing. Keep your eye out for Crithmum, silver ragwort, and sea lavender flowers. Another interesting natural phenomenon you may observe along Chemin des Douaniers are sculpted shrubs and trees. These plants may appear to be pruned to create tunnels over the paths, but it is actually the wind coming off the water that has caused them to grow this way! The trees provide a charming covering over parts of the trail, which will make you feel as though you’re exploring a hedge maze.

Peer at exclusive villas

Ever since the 1800s, Cap d'Antibes has been a getaway destination for the rich and famous. Several decided to build luxurious mansions along Chemin des Douaniers, which still stand to this day. They are removed from the path and mostly shrouded by pine trees, but you might catch sight of a few. Chateau de la Croë is one of the first you’ll see on the path. Built in 1927, it was home for a short time to the duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson. Another famous villa is Chateau Garope. Probably the most impressive home along the path is Villa Eilenroc, which was built in the 1860s. The home has extensive gardens, which are open to the public—and a nice way to end your stroll.

2. What to eat

There are several restaurants at Plage de la Garoupe, where you will likely start and end your hike. Ranging from fancy cuisine to more casual fare, all three will offer you delicious, filling food and beautiful views of the sea!

Restaurant Le César

This swanky restaurant offers the haute cuisine of Cote d'Azur. This includes the freshest seafood and exquisite Mediterranean dishes. You will not only feast on delicious offerings but also feel pampered by the friendly and attentive staff and the comfortable dining environment. The restaurant provides valet parking and has a private room for special occasions.

Le Rocher

Despite its colorful striped umbrellas shading the patio dining area, Le Rocher is not your average food stand at the beach! This fun and friendly restaurant serves tasty French staples, including a chef’s special that rotates daily. The dishes are just as tasty here as some of the fancier spots in town, and the service is just as professional, so head to Le Rocher if you’re looking for a cheaper alternative and a meal in the sun.

Le Pavilion Beach

This divine restaurant is situated on a small private beach lined with white laurels and succulents. The atmosphere feels out of this world, and the food is too! The chef’s menu is inspired by local, seasonal ingredients. Enjoy your meal on the terrace or the deck and get a taste of what paradise feels like.

3. Travel tips

Accessibility

The beginning of Chemin des Douaniers is a paved path accessible to wheelchairs. From this part of the trail, you can see stunning panoramas of the Mediterranean and the Alps in the distance. However, the paved portion is a small part of the trail, and the rest is not wheelchair accessible.

Weather

Chemin des Douaniers is not a hike you want to take on a day with bad weather. Even on nice days, the winds are strong, and the steep, narrow path requires good conditions to navigate safely. If you are hiking and come across a portion of the trail that is gated off, this means the trail is closed and you should head back.

4. How to get there

By car

If you’re driving from central Antibes, take Boulevard James Wyllie toward Cap d'Antibes. Use the parking lot near Plage de la Garoupe Beach. The coastal path begins by this beach.

Public transportation

There is a bus station in downtown Antibes where many routes intersect. You can walk from there to the start of the trail at Plage de la Garoupe, but be aware that it is a 3-mile (4.8 km) trek. You can also hop on the number 2 Envibus to the “Fontaine” stop, which will bring you closer to the start of the trail.

Chemin des Douaniers information

Chemin des Douaniers

Address: Chemin des Douaniers, 06160 Antibes, France

Tourism board: Visit Antibes