Ryujin hot springs, located in the mountains of Wakayama prefecture, has the specific feeling of a secluded hot spring. It is known as one of the three hot springs for beautiful women, together with Yunokawa in Shimane prefecture and Kawanaka in Gunma prefecture. Hot springs for beautiful women are those who are said to have a good effect on the skin, making it smooth and shiny. The beautiful nature of Ryujin hot springs increases the relaxing effects with the murmuring of Hidakagawa’s clear stream and the refreshing lush green. Not only the skin, but the heart is refreshed and purified too, making this hot spring a must visit place for women!
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Let's first visit the Motoyu public bath which is the source of the hot spring!
Ryujin hot springs has a history of 1300 years. The legend says it was discovered by the founder of Shugendo asceticism Ennogyoja and developed by Kobo Daishi who received instructions in his dream by the Buddhist deity Nanda. Under the patronage of Kishu region’s Tokugawa Yorinobu, the place elevated to the status of summer residence for the feudal lord and this prestigious spirit remains today.
“Motoyu” is a public bath with free-flowing water, established by the owner of Ryujin hot springs. It is also the source of the spring. Different than most public bath facilities, “Motoyu” is a big and lavish three-storey building located at Hidakagawa river. The inside bath is made of cypress tree, while the outer bath is made of rocks. The first thing that you see from the bath is the lush green of the opposite river bank. Hidakagawa river’s murmuring is relaxing. Ryuijin hot springs’ water is rich in sodium bicarbonate. Soaking in the colorless and odorless water feels smoothly refreshing and gives a slick feeling to your skin after you exit! You won’t believe that is your own skin! The hot spring has a positive effect not only on your skin, but also inside your body by reducing fat, stimulating the secretion of the bile and supporting the liver. Some people stay longer to treat their skin inflammation problems. The hot water warms up the body and is thus good for sensitivity to cold, neuralgia and stiff shoulders.
“Ryujin Onsen Motoyu” Admission fee: Adults (junior high-school students included) 700 JPY, elementary school students 350 JPY, infants – free Open: 7:00~ 21:00
The best way to enjoy the hot springs multiple times is to stay overnight!
Since you’ve come to Ryujin hot springs to experience the positive effects of smooth skin, you would want to stay overnight so that you can visit the facilities plenty of times! I will now introduce Sakai ryokan (Japanese inn), located within a walking distance from “Motoyu”. It has 10 rooms, boasting a family-like cosy atmosphere while still preserving the privacy of the guests with a reasonable distance between the rooms.
There is a vegetable garden in front of the entrance used for ingredients for the delicious home-made dishes. Not only the dishes with sweetfish and trout from the river, but also the soft mild meat in the “onsen shabu-shabu” (boiled meat and vegetables in a sauce) is highly recommended!
Going to this inn is an attraction of its own. After you reach the end of the street with old shops along the river, you will come up to a small bridge with a sign saying “Sakai”. Wondering if that’s the suspension bridge you should cross, you reach Sakai ryokan at the opposite bank of Hidakagawa river. The bridge is short and not very high, but there is a good view of the river between the wooden planks, so it is somewhat thrilling. Be careful not to drop your smartphone or camera! In fact, there is another bigger road which leads to the inn, so don’t worry. But those who want some thrill should definitely cross the suspension bridge!
Enjoy the feeling of bathing in the forest!
The inn has a bath supplied with water pumped up from the hot springs’ source. There isn’t an open air bath, but instead there are two indoor gender-segregated baths. Neither the dressing room, nor the bathtubs are big, but there is a great open view to the forest from the large windows. The large bath of “Motoyu” is good, but so is the cosy little one inside the inn. There are few rooms and visitors, therefore most of the times you can reserve the bath for private use, or for your family. Moreover, it is free.
Bath open time: 15:00~ 23:00 and from 6:00 to 9:30 in the morning. You can enter three times: before dinner, before bed and in the morning! Enjoy the beautiful skin hot spring!
Watching the clear stream and drinking a coffee made with natural water at "Michi no Eki Ryujin Woody Plaza Aquarium"!
The clear stream of Hidakagawa river is known as a good place for sweetfish fishing. Whole families come here for fishing in the summer. Since the stream is so clear and transparent, kids can safely play in the shallow water. There are several stairs leading to the river bed, so be sure to walk down to the water. You completely relax as you absorb the natural energy of the light blue stream, the forest lush green, the murmuring of the river and the chirp of the birds!
If you want to enjoy a cup of tea in this environment, I recommend “Michi no Eki Ryujin Woody Plaza Aquarium”. It is a building in the style of a log house made of large 350-year old hemlock trees. You can enjoy a meal and coffee made with natural water on the terrace with a view to Hidakagawa river and the lush green. There is also a home-made yuzu-lemon drink. The coffee made with Ryujin’s natural water is smooth and aromatic. The tables and chairs are made of cut logs, so you can also enjoy the fragrance and warmth of the trees.
In the shop inside the building you can buy souvenirs like locally made chopsticks, dried shiitake mushrooms, products from yuzu-lemon and plums, as well as various goods made of the blessings of the mountain.
The access to this secluded hot spring is surprisingly easy!
Ryujin hot springs’ water is mellow, smooth and good for the skin. Even though it is a secluded hot spring located among the mountains, the access is surprisingly convenient with a flight from Tokyo! The flight from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Nankishirahama Airport takes about 1 hour. From there you can reach Ryujin hot springs for about an hour and a half with a rental car. So it is only 2 hours and a half from Haneda! From Osaka it takes 3 hours by car. Let’s relax in the surprisingly close beauty-skin hot spring surrounded by the lush green of the trees and the sound of the river! Ryujin hot springs’ nature is great in the early summer, but also fantastic during the autumn colors season. Be sure to add this place to your itinerary when you travel to Shirahama, Kumano Kodo or Kushimoto!
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